A few months back, I had the pleasure of once again tasting Florian Wehrli’s delectable food when I hosted a client for lunch at the popular Manhattan restaurant, Triomphe, where he’s the Executive Chef.
This talented chef from Switzerland uses classic techniques and the freshest ingredients available to craft dishes that are both striking and wonderful. After completing his culinary training in Switzerland, Chef Wehrli apprenticed under the tutelage of renowned Chef Georges Wenger at his two-star Michelin restaurant.
The posh Iroquois Hotel in midtown Manhattan is home to Triomphe, which opened in 2000. The sophisticated yet relaxed French restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Since Chef Wehrli joined Triomphe, he’s created a rooftop chef’s garden at the Small Luxury Hotels-affiliated property. Chef Wehrli grows produce, herbs and eatable flowers he incorporates in his dishes.
The lunch menu offers options categorized as Small Plates, Luncheon Salads, Main Plates and To Share. There’s also a prix fixe menu dubbed the $44 on 44th which features a three-course meal within 60 minutes with a selection of three starters, three entrées and two desserts.
The menu has changed since we visited to accommodate the season, but my guest and I shared and enjoyed the Bison Carpaccio with Dijon Mustard and Tête de Moine Cheese ($16). The dish was as delicious as the presentation was beautiful – paper-thin slices of bison adorned with a floret of Tête de Moine, a cheese popular in Chef Wehrli’s homeland of Switzerland. On our next visit, I’ll order the Jumbo Sea Scallops with Morel Cream and Sweet Potato Pancakes – how great does that sound?
For our entrées, we selected the Crema de Bleu Stuffed Free Range Chicken Breast ($27) and the Deconstructed Bouillabaisse ($26). The substantial chicken breast with its perfectly-crispy skin was flavorful and juicy and the Jersey sweet corn and heirloom peppers succotash with a Huitlacoche sauce was bright with fresh corn flavor. The bouillabaisse featured fresh squid, clams, shrimp and striped bass in a saffron broth. Each of the items in the bouillabaisse was poached separately to conserve the individual flavors of the fish and seafood then combined in the unbelievably-fragrant saffron broth. The fish was masterly-cooked and the seafood as fresh as could be.
Various sorbets and gelatos ($9) served with berries was our pick of dessert – a refreshing, finish to an excellent meal.
Triomphe uses the Coravin™ Wine Access Technology allowing the staff to offer some of the finest wines by the glass without ever pulling their corks. Wines range from $13 to $25 for Champagne.
I’m looking forward to also visiting Triomphe for breakfast as the beautifully-appointed dining room would be the perfect place to begin the day.
Triomphe – 49 West 44th Street New York, NY 10036. 212.453.4233.
Cheers,
Veronique